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Local Talkback
Talkback is for the residents and businesses in Liphook to voice their views and opinions about local issues and events.

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Horticultural issues?
- Bush (15th Aug 2020 - 07:36:06)

Need FREE advice on many horticultural matter? You have come to the right place.

DHC is a well-established local consultancy that could offer help on pests, diseases, irrigation, disputes, planting, designing, propagation, pruning, house-plants, produce gardening, soil and a variety of ecological issues. Ask away.

Further information on the full range of consultancy services can be found at:

Dewy’s Horticultural Consultancy

Happy gardening.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (16th Aug 2020 - 14:53:11)

Hi,

I have found that some of my roses have blackfly. I have been told that soap and water in a diluted mix brushed on is as good as a pesticide. Is that true?

Thanks
Paul

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (17th Aug 2020 - 19:10:37)

Dear Paul,

I shall begin with the generalities that might be obvious then refer to your specific matter.

Well done for spotting the blackfly infestation, presuming it is a nasty case of hundreds of individuals amassing on soft young shoot tips and buds. This suggests to me that you are keeping a keen eye on what is going on in your garden – which is a good general horticultural practice.

I should make clear that 'blackfly' covers two not-uncommon types of dark coloured aphids. I guess you are referring to the commoner smaller type that usually attacks young plant tissue in the growing tips. The other type is larger, plumper, less conspicuous as it usually populates the nooks and crannies lower on the plant, and is often associated with ants. If unsure, please ask or contact DHC (see entry in the Online Directory )

It goes without saying that we aim to minimise the use of harsh, environmentally unfriendly synthetic substances in the garden. My answer is based on some assumptions:

· That the garden is otherwise ecologically generally healthy with no background problems that might compromise plants' vigour to independently resist pests infestation such as wrong light, watering levels, soil or nutrient imbalance.

· That natural aphid predators are encouraged.

· That the problem is acute rather than chronic or prolonged.

With smaller infestations, consider mechanical action: removing the blackfly by hand, brush or a jet of water.

The use of soapy water (usually an environmentally friendly washing-up fluid, runny like water but very frothy when mixed with air) acts as a surfactant. By changing the electrical properties of the water, it acts to smother the blackfly. It is a non-poisonous home-made popular solution-solution ;) Usually sprayed on, but you might consider brushing it on the pests.

In my experience, the method does work well enough. But do make sure there aren't hidden beneficial insects in the vicinity as this method is not at all selective. The beneficial insects are more vulnerable to most pest treatments than the target species.

But every case is different; if no joy – consider moving on to something harsher or consult with DHC.

Wishing you a rewarding summer's gardening,
DHC

PLEASE NOTE: The advice given is specific to the individual question and based on limited information. Every garden is different. It is intended as helpful guidance only and the decision on the best course of action remains with the questioner.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- D (17th Aug 2020 - 21:45:04)

Hello, I have a peony that used to flower every year but has produced no blooms for the past two years. Any ideas? It's against my shed facing south east. Thankyou.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (18th Aug 2020 - 18:31:03)

Dear D,
Very hard to ascertain from the brief description.

Peonies could be herbaceous or semi woody (shrub/tree peonies), we are not told which is in your question. Herbaceous peonies may refrain from flowering for some years if soil level had been raised above the crown (e.g. deep mulch). Woody peonies may fail to perform if wrongly pruned.
In general, Japanese peonies need a sunny position. In some cases something happens unobserved, like overhanging trees have subsequently grown and created new shadow on the peonies, reducing the direct sunlight hours. Less than a good half day strong sunshine could impede flowering.
There are many other possible causes such as: blossom fatigue (temporary), unusual weather, pests, nutrition...
A south-face aspect should be suitable for an established peony. You might have noticed failed flower buds on your peony or you might have inadvertently changed the care regime in some way.
I am sorry my response was less than conclusive. I only have your text to go on. Would you like to show in photos? That may help a little although there is no more conclusive diagnosis than a site visit with further questioning. A proper investigation about how the peony had been performing and cared for would go a long way.

If unsure, please ask or contact DHC (see entry in the Online Directory: liphook.uk/... )
Wishing you a rewarding summer's gardening,
DHC.

PLEASE NOTE: The advice given is specific to the individual question and based on limited information. Every garden is different. It is intended as helpful guidance only and the decision on the best course of action remains with the questioner.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- D (18th Aug 2020 - 20:09:08)

I think you may have solved it. It's a herbaceous variety and I recently built a small pigeon coop next to it. This places the plant in the shade from about 11am onwards. Oh well, pigeon pie for the next week. Thankyou, I'm grateful for your help.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (24th Aug 2020 - 10:45:16)

Thank you. I followed your advice and used a soft toothbrush on the buds. Silly, but I always assumed that the little blighters would just jump back on!

Having cleaned them off (without damaging the rose), I used some dilute fairy liquid.

That seems to have resolved it (for the moment at least). I shall leave it a few more days and check again... but at the moment RESULT and with no nasty chemicals.

Really appreciate it. I have noted the other services you offer and told my friends. Good luck.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Angie (31st Aug 2020 - 12:34:48)

Hi there, is now a good time to move a salvia?

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Angie Hart (31st Aug 2020 - 18:37:56)

Hi there, something is eating my geraniums. Large holes in the leaves. Any advice?

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (1st Sep 2020 - 05:41:21)

Thanks Angie.
Salvia is a huge botanical genus, exceeding 900 species spread over much of the Old World. Each would have somewhat different specific requirements.
Autumn is a very good (my favourite) time to transplant most garden plants and I see no reason why salvias would be an exception.
For fear of overburdening you with information here, the short answer is Yes.
Please do let know if you'd like further advise e.g. How or Where to transplant your salvia.
If yet unsure, please ask or contact DHC (see entry in the Online Directory: www.liphook.uk/...
Wishing you a rewarding summer's gardening,
DHC


PLEASE NOTE: The advice given is specific to the individual question and based on limited information. Every garden is different. It is intended as helpful guidance only and the decision on the best course of action remains with the questioner.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Angie Hart (1st Sep 2020 - 16:26:42)

Thanks so much for the response. I have been looking at the great advice you have given me and others. I would really value it if you came to do a garden visit so that I can sign up for your consultation service. You do seem like an excellent teacher. Many thanks. I'm sure I will learn loads more. How wonderful to have this opportunity.
Best
Angie

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (4th Sep 2020 - 07:15:08)

Dear Angie,

With regards to the geranium issue (31st Aug 2020 18:37:56):

'Geranium' is a diverse genus of over 400 species, differing in growth habit, appearance and requirements. I am not told which we are dealing with.

In my experience in our region, planetariums ('tender geraniums') often suffer from various moth larvae damage later in their growing season. Random-shape notches are gnawed out the green leaves. It becomes more of a frustration when the larvae devours the petals even before the flower opens (leaving empty flower buds).

If your geranium is under other environmental stress, disease, or nutritionally deficient, then it may become victim of opportunistic slug / snail damage. Their eating habits usually leave some signs of delicate scraping of the leaf and dried slime trace.

To provide you with a more definite answers I will need to see it for myself or at least good photos of the specimen.

If yet unsure, please ask or contact DHC

Tel: 07914484801
Email: da_rl@hotmail.com

Wishing you a rewarding summer's gardening,
DHC


PLEASE NOTE: The advice given is specific to the individual question and based on limited information. Every garden is different. It is intended as helpful guidance only and the decision on the best course of action remains with the questioner.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Angie Hart (4th Sep 2020 - 09:45:55)

Thanks so much. Look forward to you coming for the visit.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (8th Sep 2020 - 22:27:03)

Thank you so much for your advice on my blackfly.

I am sorry to trouble you again, but wondered how I can better manage the water for my garden. I have three water butts but because of the gradient would have to use a pump.

I have read your directory post. Should I send photos or could you visit to assess my landscape and propose options ?


Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (9th Sep 2020 - 14:32:57)

Hi Paul,

Thank you for your question. There can be many methods of water management, and local circumstances can differ so significantly that a site visit is essential. I am happy to provide a quote and you of course can accept or reject my assessment.
Use of rain water rather than mains water is an opportunity to cut down on bills, labouring time, plants' well-being issues, environmental impact and could even reduce flooding issues when done correctly.

In general, the quality, demand and availability of water should be considered, how and when to move it and the best delivery method. There are a wide range of products that can be employed, but sometimes a very cost effective solution can be found. Managing ‘thirsty’ plants and installing solutions for water transit routes can be two such methods. Water in the garden is becoming an increasingly pertinent consideration as climate and billing are hotting-up! We hear more talk of mains water restrictions, droughts, flooding issues etc.

Any more specific informed advice would require a visit in the property.

Please contact me on
Tel: 07914484801
Email: da_rl@hotmail.com

I hope that helps,
DHC

PLEASE NOTE: The advice given is specific to the individual question and based on limited information. Every garden is different. It is intended as helpful guidance only and the decision on the best course of action remains with the questioner.

Free plants
- DHC (24th Sep 2020 - 15:43:42)

A large bag of free Brunnera macrophyla available. Please ask with email address for reply.

Happy planting,

DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (24th Sep 2020 - 18:39:42)

Plants are now spoken for by our local gardening initiative Liphook in Bloom, for the enjoyment of the Liphook community.

Re: Horticultural issues? Free plants
- DHC (25th Sep 2020 - 14:02:26)

Yet again, free plants available for collection in central Liphook.
Must be collected and planted up very soon.

One bagful of day-lilies.
One bagful of Brunnera macroplylla (claimed for but failed to collect)

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (25th Sep 2020 - 19:07:42)

Now all taken, until the next time :)

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (27th Oct 2020 - 11:42:27)

Hi,

It is so much easier getting advice from you than a garden center. They will only talk about what they sell.

.......anyway, please could you briefly explain the difference between an annual, a bi annual, a perenial a hardy perenial and other such categories?

I see this on plant labels and still do not know what to buy.

Thank for all your help.
Paul

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (29th Oct 2020 - 15:12:26)

Hello Paul,

I will attempt to clarify the terms that you have mentioned without using excessive jargon:

ANNUALS as hinted in the name, are plants which are expected to complete their entire garden worth within twelve months.

BIANNUAL plants start their life (germination) in Year One, and only perform (flower) in Year Two. They typically die following performance and rarely have any garden value in subsequent years.

PERENNIAL plants are expected to perform way beyond the third year in the garden.

A HARDY plant is expected to overwinter (survive through winter’s hardships) unaided. Thus a hardy perennial is expected to come back year after year without any special winter weather protection.


There are further such categories, but for brevity sake, please ask again.

Hope this helps you Paul,
DHC.

At DHC you will get all the horticultural answers you seek.
Email: dhcgardens@outlook.com

Some DHC garden photos: flickr.com/photos/189987338@N05/albums

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (6th Nov 2020 - 16:56:54)

DHC,

Thank you ever so much. I have long been confused about the terms.

I have passed this thread to colleagues in the office who may as for some help...A great idea.

Stay safe.

Paul
xxxx

Re: Pertinent horticultural advice
- DHC (12th Feb 2021 - 10:27:15)

Outdoors container plants NOW

Think about your garden container plants outdoors in this weather.

Are they frost protected by means of fleecing etc’? (other suitable materials available) Consider protection for the root as well as the canopy.

Even hardy plants can be damaged by frost under certain conditions, depending on the particular type of plant and the particular predicaments (i.e. today’s weather) of that specific specimen.

In this dry, breezy, sunny, frosty weather, plants would rather be outside of direct sunshine; consider moving the container some place shadier. Reducing wind and sun exposure can also be achieved by cramming plants close up together.
Their soil may be dry, consider watering but make sure that the water can drain out of the bottom of the container unobstructed.

Remember to reverse the above measures when the combined breezy, sunny, dry frosty danger had passed.

Mulching is almost always a good idea over moist soil.
Topdressing and feeding are good practices in early spring, in about a month from now.

We hope this helps.
Any further enquiries, please email DHC at: dhcgardens@outlook.com
See our Business Online Directory entry on liphook.uk Directory entry where you will also find a link to the flickr photos: flickr.com/photos/189987338@N05/albums

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (16th Feb 2021 - 07:09:49)

Courtesy of DHC
Local garden reminders for later winter:

In February there are two winter pruning jobs that are commonplace in local gardens: wisterias and buddleias.
Give or take a month or two around February, decades of local experience shown that this is the ideal time for winter pruning for clematis of Pruning Groups 1 & 2 and most roses.

There are additional winter pruning jobs for this time of the year. All should be performed skilfully in order to encourage good performance, whiles it takes quite some experience not to get them wrong!

The hellebores (perennial herbaceous sometimes called “Christmas Rose”) are now entering their peak performance period. Your mature clump hellebores (NOT the “Holly-leaved” H. argutifolius) should have had their 2020 leaves removed by now. Removing the leaves of the healthy mature clumps around Christmastime would keep the plants healthier and allow clear view of the blooms. Take care not to cut off flower stalks or this year’s young leaves. Individual hellebore flowers can be floated in a saucer of water, facing upwards to show the beauty in the details.

If your deciduous grasses have not yet been tidied-up, now is good time for doing so provided they are not prone to late frost damage.

For further help and advice, please see previous postings above.
Courtesy of DHC.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Helen (16th Feb 2021 - 09:01:37)

My garden is composed of heavy clay soil and waterlogged in winter. It is not a mature garden so I would like advice on planting shrubs in it for year round colour and interest.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (17th Feb 2021 - 16:03:24)

Dear Helen,

Heavy clay is hard to cultivate (and messy), but it also has some advantages for growing some plants.
The plants should be chosen to tolerate or thrive in clay. Cleverly managed, the clay indehiscence can become helpful.

Having said that, there are a number of optional techniques to lighten-up the sticky situation. ‘Improved’ clay allows for a wider choice of planting and makes gardening generally easier.

There are certain techniques specific for heavy clay planting.
Clay garden soils are less common in our area, and it is always a pleasure to learn more about local horticulture.

There are plants which if chosen carefully could indeed reward you with relative low-maintenance year-round interest. The trick is to get it right, tailored to your specific garden borders and your own specific expectations / abilities.

See above for more about and contacting DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Helen (17th Feb 2021 - 18:37:41)

Thank you

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (23rd Feb 2021 - 21:18:04)

Hi DHC,

I am really curious. I have learned of a tree I have never hear of before, a 'Wild Service Tree'. I wondered if you could help with locating any local specimens.

I understand they are quite rare and have a white blossom towards the end of spring.

I think there is one in Farnham Park, but I have not found it yet....any ideas?

Regards
Paul

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC AMIT Luongo (24th Feb 2021 - 11:38:02)

Thanks Paul.
Sorry I can not be of much help on this one.

My sources can tell you that Sorbus torminalis is native in our region. Various sources say that it is: common, not un-common, widespread, and rare... They also tell you where to get this tree to buy, alas I could not find any specific enough information to send you to a point on the map. I can find records from Churt, Milland, Binstead and Haslemere, but can't access anything more informative than a postcode. The following link might be of interest for you:
bsbi.org/maps?taxonid=2cd4p9h.frz

Good hunting!
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Helen (24th Feb 2021 - 14:38:55)

Hi Paul, there is info on the Woodland trust and wildlife trust websites. It is an ancient tree, sign of old woodland and bears fruits called Chequers which were formerly used in beer making. Apparently pubs were called " the Chequers" after the fruit. Not a tree which you can find in the garden centres.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Terry B (28th Feb 2021 - 11:35:32)

As a complete novice in this area I have no knowledge of what to plant where to plant it etc etc. I am about to attempt creating a cottage type garden border along the west boundary of my garden which has a 6ft panel fence. My question is " given that although the border has the sun in the mornings after midday the fence puts it in the shade for the rest of the day....... Will the plants flourish or should I look at an alternative?
The plants in question are Anemone, Aster, Buddleja, Campanula, Ceanothus, Coreopsis, Erysemum, Escallonia, Geranium, Hebe, Helenium, Hellebores, Lavender, Ligustrum, Lonicera, Nepeta, Penstemon, Pyracantha, Rosemary, Salvia, Scabiousa, Viburnum, Weigela.

Any advice gratefully received.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Paul Johnson (28th Feb 2021 - 19:10:57)

Thanks for the reply on the 'Wild Service Tree' I shall have to get my boots on and go hunting. If I track one down I shall let you know, you have been so honest and helpful.

That website is really interesting, just too general. Perhaps we need a street view through the woods....or perhaps not!

I shall be contacting you through the Liphook Directory listing that you have to arrange an appointment.

Very very grateful.
Paul

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (1st Mar 2021 - 08:31:36)

Thanks for your question Terry B.
The microclimate that you have so well described is a common consideration in planting schemes.

Generally speaking, most half-shade or woodland-edge plants should thrive in that microclimate.
Some sun loving and some shade loving plants may also tolerate and give partial value for the space they take up in the border.
Afternoon shade is of great benefit when it comes to prolonging flower petal displays. Hot afternoon sun (which you won’t get in your case) speeds up flower ageing and wilting, especially in the highest gardening season (April-June). Your afternoon shade would be a great boost for the longevity of herbaceous ‘cottage’ type blooms which are absent from your carefully listed plant names.
The plants on your list are more all-round good-doers. So, yes, you could optimise by adhering to the principle of ‘right plants for the right place’ with a more bespoke planting list (please ask DHC).

I don’t know about the extent of frost in your garden, but this issue is quite pertinent here. In the described microclimate, morning frosts might damage early blooms / growths. So best steer away from plants whose main display takes place before May (none on your list gives me any such concern).

In summary: Your described microclimate should not get in the way of getting a decent display out of the plant names you’ve mentioned. Nonetheless, some of those plants fullest potential is in full sun. Conversely, more typically ‘cottage’ plants not mentioned on your list would be even more ‘appreciative’ of the described microclimate.

I hope this helps,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Mike Jones (8th Mar 2021 - 20:57:56)

Hi,

I heard about you from a colleague in the office, and he recommended I ask your advice...so a simple question.

Is it too late now to plant spring flowering bulbs? If not too late what would give the best effect?

Thank you.
Mike

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (9th Mar 2021 - 11:09:30)

Good morning Mike,
Thank you for your query last night.

The ideal planting time for the spring bulbs depends on what they are, this should be clearly stated on the label. Spring bulbs are marketed in a time-critical manner (similar to fresh bananas) to get the best out of them one should follow the specific horticultural instructions.
Spring bulbs planted later than their ideal planting time are disadvantaged in two major ways.

1) Storage: Spring bulbs are mostly stored and sold dry on the shelf. Storage duration should be kept minimal. Every passing day of storage stress would affect the health of the plant. This process accelerates with the passing seasons. Storage of dry bulbs should be at optimal environmental conditions (e.g. correct light, humidity and temperature values) which in most cases are not met. Moreover, stressed bulbs of compromised condition are more prone to pick up pest and diseases.

2) Establishment: Spring bulbs planted this late would have had less time to interact with the soil and the environment. They'd have had less time to establish a supportive root system to replenish storage days losses, and to sustain a good strong flower display this spring.

So planting spring bulbs this late in the season could mean: No blooms this year, poor blooms this year, suboptimal blooms this year, or poor performance next year or two.

One can go ahead and plant them in the desired position anyway.
However, I'd recommend planting them outside of the display borders, perhaps in a nursery bed where (if the conditions are right) they should be rehabilitated and maybe transplanted to the desired position once the leaves have shrivelled later in the spring/summer.
In the meantime, one might consider planting summer bulbs - now is a good time.

Hopefully this might help.
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (12th Mar 2021 - 16:24:15)

Free bearded iris plants available for collection from DHC.


Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (16th Mar 2021 - 13:27:23)

More free plants from DHC:
A bagful of variegated Sisyrinchium for urgent planting is available for collection.
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Mike Jones (24th Mar 2021 - 14:42:34)

OMG, my colleague was not exaggerating when he recommended you.

You are the best. I have replied sooner because I have been busy planting as you suggest. I had not read your previous posts but have now....really interesting.

I shall ask you to come around and do an assessment for me. I cannot work out, which plants will thrive and which will die in different spots. I spend more on 'plant pot luck', than I would if I paid for a professional.

Thanks again.

Mike

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Sarah Smthe (24th Mar 2021 - 18:54:12)

Hi,

I am told that using 'Lawn Sand' in the spring is a good thing to do? It is quite expensive. Is it worth it because it makes the grass go black.

Thank you.
Sarah

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Keith Thomas (24th Mar 2021 - 21:23:41)

I have raised bed supporting sleepers (untreated oak) that have been “dissolving” over the past few years and I now need to replace them. On close inspection there are “bootlace” roots running through the bits of wood that are in the worst state. My initial thought was Honey Fungus but I have not seen any honey coloured fungus at all and the plants in the bed seem healthy.

So my question is, are these bootlace threads unique to honey-fungus or could it be something else?

Many thanks

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (26th Mar 2021 - 05:56:26)

Dear Sarah,
Thank you for your lawn sand question.

If by ‘lawn sand’ you mean combined moss and weed killer based on ferrous sulphate then the blackening of the grass blades themselves is not detrimental and can be minimised if used correctly.
Depending on which (moss or other weeds) it is that you are trying to eradicate, you may be able to source a cheaper more selective application for your lawn. This treatment is quite high-maintenance and involved; it only treats the symptoms rather than the causal problem. Repeated applications will be necessary.
You can invite me over to inspect and advise the best solutions by emailing me at dhcgardens@outlook.com

DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (27th Mar 2021 - 05:25:18)

Dear Keith,
Thank you for your bootlace question.

Your description may fit a honey fungus infection.

The fact that you have not yet seen the honey-coloured toadstools may be because most of them pop-up around autumn and are not always spotted.
Not all plants will necessarily be attacked and show symptoms of the infection.
If the bootlaces do attack our plants then the damage will be done whether or not the toadstools reveal themselves.

As you might expect, in order to have better chances of identifying, I will need to pay you an inspection / consultation visit. Please email dhcgardens@outlook.com
Both ‘bootlace’ and ‘honey-fungus’ are colloquial terms referring to several fungus species that have similar effect on our gardens.
So although a ‘species’ of fungus would have specific type of ‘bootlace’, there is an almost infinite variety of bootlaces, some will belong to one of the honey-fungus species, others will not. The bootlaces in your case may or may not indicate honey-fungus.

As you can see, there is a great measure of complexity, variability and mystery in our knowledge of honey-fungus effects. Can you see any damage to your living garden plants?

DHC.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (29th Mar 2021 - 19:19:27)

Dear Dan,
Thank you for your question on geums and hydrangea pruning, today on another chat thread.

Hydrangea pruning:
March and April are good time for pruning hydrangeas. However, we are not told what type your hydrangea is and this is important because different hydrangea types require different pruning techniques for optimal displays.
All hydrangea types should be dead-headed in March and April.
There are further issues related to hydrangea spring care, which are best addressed in-situ in-person. Please consider arranging consultation by contacting DHC directly at dhcgardens@outlook.com

Geum planting:
It is a fine time to plant geums.
They will preform best in a sunny border where the soil is well-drained but moist most of the time.
However, they are very forgiving plants and can still provide some display in less sunny borders and possibly in containers too.

DHC. Please find DHC’s contact details and business summary in the Business Online Directory of liphook.co.uk

Re: THANK YOU
- Sarah Smithe (25th Apr 2021 - 10:59:40)

Hi DHC,

Your advice to me on my lawn sand question was sooooo good. I took the advice and went for a specific moss killer this year instead. It has worked a treat. Now I may alternate each year or do Moss in the spring and lawn sand in the autumn.

I just wanted to use your excellent thread to recommend to others the EHDC Garden waste disposal. Having killed the moss and scarified (if that is the correct spelling), I got a lot of debris, and have signed up for a single bin for one year. At £72 it is quite a lot for a bi weekly collection but already it has paid for itself in the cost of trips to the dump, especially with current restrictions.

More info on this is at easthants.gov.uk/garden-waste

Kind regards and my thanks again.

Sarah

Re: Horticultural issues?
- passfieldk (25th Apr 2021 - 12:11:24)

Hi i wonder if you can help , i have Prunus ornamental cherry tree weeping variety which my mum bought for me twenty years ago and i want to take a cutting from it in case we move , can you advise please as i seem to have no luck at the moment .
Thanks in advance

Re: Horticultural issues?
- liz (25th Apr 2021 - 18:39:07)

I have a cistus that has been in the garden for years. Often looks a bit sick this time of year but now looking very dead all over. Scratching the stems reveals some green. Any hope? Ditto to the above with some autumn flowering Heather. Thanks

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (27th Apr 2021 - 05:32:38)

Dear passfieldk,
Thanks for your query.

My first question to you would be: Do you know whether the tree is grafted or not? I suspect the answer should be positive. The second question would be: Do we know on which stock the grafting was done? I suspect that we are not going to know.

Taking a cutting of a grafted tree is unlikely to produce a similar growth habit or vigour.
To achieve a similar "child" tree to that of the original, one will need to emulate the original graft stock and procedure.

There is a wide variety of rootstocks to give different vigour for different cherry varieties. This gets quite complicated - outside the scope of this thread. Invite DHC (contact details in the Business Online Directory) for a closer inspection to avoid costly disappointments and set you on your optimal path.


Sarah: You're very welcome, and thanks for the EHDC reference.

Yours,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- er (27th Apr 2021 - 15:35:00)

This is a really nice thread, long may it continue, I enjoy the heated ones too but this is probably a better use of social media, good job😁!

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (28th Apr 2021 - 08:08:28)

Thanks liz,

The short answer is YES, there is hope for your cistus. However, outside of ideal conditions, they can be less than long-leaved shrubs, I wouldn't get too emotionally attached. For a more in-depth discussion on the specific growing conditions, please contact DHC via the Business Directory on this website.
Was there anything you wanted to ask about heathers?

Thank you er (27th Apr 2021 �15:35:00)

Best wishes,
DHC



Re: Horticultural issues?
- liz (28th Apr 2021 - 12:18:36)

Many thanks for your help DHC you have answered my question. From what you say it seems that for both cistus and the heathers it is worth being patient for a while and see what happens when we have (hopefully !) a reasonable amount of rain and warmer weather.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Mike Hunter (15th May 2021 - 16:58:23)

Hi,

It is my day off and I have decided to remove my high (approx 4 meter) lalandi hedge.

I am considering what to replace it with, and have found 'Hornbeam'. I wold like an evergreen because we overlook other houses,. I know the hornbeam is deciduous but:

1) Is it dense enough even in winter to preserve privacy?
2) How fast does it grow?
3) The soil is sandy and sandstone...will it survive?
4) A tree opposite it has 'Honey Fungus'...would it be affected.

Sorry, big questions but I do not want to spend 100's of pounds on the hedge only to have it die. Do you do visits?

Thank you.

Mike.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- H (15th May 2021 - 17:54:00)

Why do people insist on removing hedges during nesting season!!! 😕
It is actually an offence.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Mike Hunter (15th May 2021 - 20:00:25)

Hi,

Just to clarify, I do not intend to remove the hedge just investigate my options, so the birds are safe!

That raises a question as to what is considered the 'nesting season' because I would assume it differs with each bird species....or is the season fixed like the fishing seasons?

Regards
Mike

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (16th May 2021 - 16:17:52)

Dear Mike,

Thanks for contacting DHC.

There are a number of plants similar to hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and I fear their common names are commonly confused. So for clarification, we’re discussing Carpinus here.

1) Similar to beech hedges, hornbeam hedges can retain some dry foliage over winter. The extent of this will depend on this particular hedge’s local specific conditions and can be promoted by correct clipping. Unlike beech, hornbeam leaves, if maintained over winter, tend to be more see-through, and don’t last as long.
Hornbeam would not be my choice for screening year-round.

2) The speed of growth will, again, depend on your local conditions and in less favourable positions hornbeam will be faster than beech. Horticulturalists talk about time taken to reach a certain given size which I can’t discern from your question. The speed of growth will also depend on the age and size at time of planting.

3) Hornbeam is tolerant of most soil types. In this country it is more common on lowland areas where it grows better in heavier moister soils than the usual alternatives. This is perhaps one of the reasons we don’t see many local growers opting for hornbeam here. Our sandy soil would benefit from extra improvement and extra watering to promote good hornbeam growth.

4) Hornbeam are moderately susceptible to honey fungus, in your case, you will be taking a risk of honey fungus infection.

Without knowing the extent of your hedge, planting a new hedge in the dormant season from bare-root nursery plants need not be expensive.

This is as far as I can tell without arranging for a site visit. To arrange that, please email dhcgardens@outlook.com or visit the Business Directory at https://www.liphook.uk/ext/results.php?id=3732

Not to be misunderstood: Hornbeam is an appealing plant, but in this case not perhaps DHC’s recommended choice.

DHC hopes this helps and looking further for your posting on Horticultural Issues

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (18th May 2021 - 06:36:58)

Dear Mike Hunter and H, 15/05/2021

Many are aware of the protected legal status of birds (of all species), specifically when it comes to hedge clipping.
At the risk of introducing some common-sense and moderation to what is often a polarising passionate debate, let’s consider the issue.
The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 that protects nests from hedge clipping (the hedge clipping itself is not illegal per se’, the harming of birds is under certain situations) aims at the period of March-August to the best of DHC knowledge. It refers to active nesting, “live” nests.
Clipping and other pruning is permissible any time of year even if nesting may be in progress - if it can be proven essential for public safety, crop production, etc.
Successful prosecution would need to prove intentional damage that could have easily been avoided. Additionally, prove damage to birds by the very hands of the pruning operator.

The Act had often been abused and taken to extremes.

Conscientious garden owners would consider the situation on legal, moral and practical levels before making decisions. Let’s keep protect our wildlife, and tend to our gardens while acting responsibly.

DHC is in no way responsible to interpretations of the law of the land!

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Mike Hunter (19th May 2021 - 08:59:19)

ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT answer. Thank you so much.

Everything I could find elsewhere was too general and did not take account on the aspect, soil conditions shade etc. This work will cost in excess of £1,000 so I did not want to spend out that only to find new plants died due to loss of nutrients, poor soil etc.

I shall book you for a site visit through your directory listing.

VERY grateful indeed.

Best regards
Mike.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- R Ellis (19th May 2021 - 10:24:54)

Hi could tell me if honey fungus will damage clematis plants. Going to plant clematis were a tree died of honey fungus. Thanks in advance.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (20th May 2021 - 04:58:19)

Good morning R Ellis,
Thanks for contacting DHC.

From experience and other sources, clematis are less susceptible to honey fungus. They are rarely affected by it.
Small new clematis plants in smaller than 2 litre pots are usually quite weak and not equipped to fight it off with the elements, competition and pests (this might include honey fungus). So if yours is one of these small specimens DHC would recommend potting it on for 1-2 years until it’s big and robust enough to be planted in the ground.

DHC wish you good luck.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- James (3rd Jun 2021 - 15:46:36)

Hello, I have a mature Magnolia Soulangeana which was hit by a sharp frost causing its blossom to turn brown soon after it had opened.
Normally the leaves appear as soon as the blossom is over but it's about five weeks since the frost and it is still almost devoid of leaves. Is there a danger of the tree dying and is there anything I can do to help it?
Thank you.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (5th Jun 2021 - 16:17:07)

Dear James, Thank you for your question.
Magnolia trees like yours have had a very poor bloom this springtime (with a few exceptions).
If it had not managed to leaf up by now then there is reason for concern.
Not much more DHC can do without the opportunity for a close inspection. Some specimens have forgone part of the canopy this spring, as a scarify, and are now alive and green on other parts of the canopy.
There may be a few remedial actions that could help your tree.
Please arrange with DHC for a visit and see what could be done to help the situation. Email dhcgardens@outlook.com , further details available via the Online Directory of liphook.uk
We hope this helps,
DHC.

Re: Magnolia Frost
- David Evans (16th Jun 2021 - 09:36:00)

I have two magnolias. One very large and early flowering (pink and white) and the second flowers a month later and is much smaller and dark mauve.

The first was badly affected by the frost with leaves and flower heads seriously browned. It did go on to flower but for a much shorter period and quickly diminished. No permanent damage.

The second was untouched but is both a different variety and in a more sheltered position. Can magnolias be moved or is that high risk?

Thanks
David

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (17th Jun 2021 - 16:32:56)

Dear David Evans,
Thanks for asking DHC about the transplantation of your magnolia. Your description of this year’s blossom is the same as many others have experienced.

In transplanting magnolias there are a few important things to bear in mind.

If a deciduous type then the ideal season will be from mid-autumn to very early winter. If evergreen then autumn will be a good time, as well as springtime with more after planting watering. All transplanted trees benefit from watering during the first summer at least.
However, deciduous magnolias are amongst the list of trees that can “bleed” sap to death if injured from mid-winter to mid-spring. Even if not a lethal bleeding: for best establishment post-transplantation the tree will need to keep hold of every single drop of sap.

A protected position for an early flowering deciduous magnolia is a common pitfall. DHC are all too familiar with a number of trees in such “protected” positions. It is entirely possible for the trees to get enthusiastic too early during springtime sunny days, open the buds early, then get hit by the frost at night. A suntrap is no adequate nigh-time protection for plants.

The feasibility of transplanting a tree should be carefully considered. Why not invite DHC for a garden visit for advice on the issues above and other horticultural insights?

Best wishes,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Jess (18th Jun 2021 - 12:36:15)

Hi, I have some couch grass in the garden and I ve tried digging it out but it is back breaking as there are so many roots. I m not keen on using pesticides as I want to use the area eventually for growing veg. If as a last resort I used resolva will it contaminate the soil and will I have to leave it for a few years before I grow any veg due to contamination.
Also I don't want to harm the wildlife I already have in the garden.

Please can you advise the best course of action.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (19th Jun 2021 - 07:42:46)

Dear Jess,
Thanks for asking DHC about couch grass in your garden.

There are two or three methods to tackle, and maybe even eradicate this weed without the application of herbicides or other agrochemicals. One is a specific manual dee-weeding, the other is the use of a very opaque sheet (e.g. black polythene or pond liner) over the ground to block any light shining on the surface.

If you do resort to the use of herbicides, then glyphosphate-based weed killer (e.g. Roundup) are considered harmless to wildlife and safe around edible crops when used correctly. Although an effective herbicide, glyphosate weed-killers are non-selective and are likely to harm any green growth it lands on. Particular care should be taken near aquatic habitats.
As for your “Resolva”, they presumingly come in a variety of formulas, containing differing active ingredients and have very different uses. Use the wrong type and you might regret it.

For any more specific and concrete advice DHC would recommend you to book an advisory session (and possibly physical assistance) my emailing dahgardens@outlook.com or see details for DHC in the Business Directory of the liphook.uk website.

We hope this helps,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Jess (19th Jun 2021 - 19:41:08)

Thank you for the advice, I will try the black plastic/ pond liner to start with and see how it goes. Thank you so much for the advice

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Sarah Smythe (13th Jul 2021 - 10:35:54)

Hi DHC,

You helped me a lot earlier with a moss issue in my grass. The cause is that my garden does not drain well.

Rather than do expensive ground works, which plants are best in WET conditions? I have hostas and hydrangias. They do very well. Can you suggest other options please that grow no bigger than a meter tall?

Thank you again. You are a treasure.

Sarah

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Neil (13th Jul 2021 - 12:16:38)

Hi

We have a big clump of bamboo that is spreading as whoever planted it put it straight in the ground. Are you able to remove the clump and any offshoots so we can plant something else there instead? Interested in getting a quote please.

Thanks

Neil

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (13th Jul 2021 - 16:19:16)

Thank you very much Sarah.

Despite of the general malaise and negativity, there is good planting potential in damp shade. There is a long list of plants that will suite damp shade. You just need to decide what sort of look / feel you want. Then the list could be broken down to major categories (e.g. ground cover plants, shrubs etc). Then we can select species and varieties from those groups.
Seems to me that a visit needs to be arranged over DHC email or telephone.

I hope this helped,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (15th Jul 2021 - 16:56:40)

Dear Neil,

We can remove a clump of bamboo, depending on how big is "big", etc.
Why not email DHC: dhcgardens@outlook.com and arrange for a viewing and a free quote?

Best wishes,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (21st Aug 2021 - 17:58:26)

August regenerative pruning for garden shrubs

Amongst the basic list of August seasonal jobs, you’d rarely find mentioned regenerative pruning.
This regular job applies mostly to shrubs and some trees which carry their crop (flower / fruits / decorative foliage / decorative bark) on shoots (branches / twigs) generated a year or more earlier. The spent shoots are best removed altogether, as soon as the display is over. This will do away with less attractive growth and allow better development of future shoots.
Of course there will be other conditions to consider and some exceptions to the rule.
Ideally the appropriate pruners should be well-maintained and the actual cut done correctly to avoid damage.
Watch out for potential pest and disease on the tender regrowth.
The month of August is the last in the year to allow post-pruning regrowth time to harden-off before winter, the last chance is now!
Other time-critical jobs to do by August are various propagation jobs, ask if you need to learn.

DHC is now available for some gardening / horticulture trouble shooting, or horticultural training.
Please call 07914484801

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Angie (23rd Aug 2021 - 16:02:36)

Fab advice from Dewy about my Camelia. Thanks so much.

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (11th Oct 2021 - 14:27:14)

October is a very busy time in the garden, there are good lists of jobs that can now be done and jobs that need to be done by around now.

Examples: Autumn leaf clearance, herbaceous perennial propagation by crown division, spring bulb planting, cutting down perennial die-back, transplantation of many plants (including shrubs, trees, evergreens and deciduous), growing-on biannual seedlings (ground and containers), some specific type of rose pruning, general tidy up and swap summer displays into winter displays, autumn lawn care, seed collection, harvest, consider winter-proofing (frost and wind protection), remove saucers from most containers, a great time to plant up most new plants (ideal time for planting new shrubs and trees, new evergreens and deciduous)… And the list goes on…

DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (7th Nov 2021 - 16:53:13)

What to do?
- Daniel fairbanks (7th Nov 2021 �15:47:27)

I have a small border alongside my drive which goes from ground level to about 2ftt in height and 3ft depth. Along the back is a collection of quite mature Holly trees. The border is looking king very unloved. Some ideas would be very much appreciated. Image available on request.



Dear Daniel,

Below is the order of action DHC would advise:

1) Decide and mark out the outline of your future border. Make a permanent edge out of edging materials and/or dig up (deep vertical edge) crisp lines that clearly define the border.

2) Regularly prune the lower holly hedge to give a clear skirting line.

3) If applicable, improve the soil.

4) Plant out with appropriate plants.

5) Keep up the regular even if infrequent essential maintenance.

For more details on plant choice and other details, could you please show and/or describe the border?
Alternatively, you could arrange for DHC to advise on-site in-person via the Online directory on this TalkBack website: DHC

You may contact DHC via email: dhcgardens@outlook.com

Re: Horticultural issues?
- David (3rd Jan 2022 - 13:08:55)

Hi there.

I have some Cannas outside in planters that I need to overwinter. It’s mild in Brighton, but I’m worried about the wet conditions, so I was intending on bringing them inside at least until March. I have 2 questions:

1) can I cut them down now (before heavy frosts) as they are looking a bit sad?
2) Can I leave them in their pots and simply bring them inside (and keep them in a sunny but unheated room), and let the soil dry out before putting them back outside in the spring, or should I take them out of the soil for a bit?

Cheers,

David

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (3rd Jan 2022 - 16:23:28)

Hello David,

1) Yes, in "normal" winters of our Liphook climate cannas' top growth is usually cut down by now. However, it is recommended to leave a "neck" of the old summer growth at a few inches length for the rest of winter.

2) Conventionally, in our region, we overwinter cannas under conditions that are quite different from what you have suggested. They are kept frost-free cool, dark, and moist. They are thus discouraged from attempting to make any growth over winter. They can be left in the summer pots, or loose in some left-over soil that covers their underground parts inside any container.

DHC hope this helps and here to answer further queries.
Happy 2022!

Re: Horticultural issues?
- David Forrest (3rd Jan 2022 - 19:38:03)

Thanks. Sounds logical.

DHC request - Choiysa
- Dan (25th Jun 2022 - 15:59:26)

Hi Dewy

I have cut back my Choiysa quite heavily after it has flowered. Will it take hard pruning?

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (25th Jun 2022 - 19:04:53)

"Hi Dewy

I have cut back my Choiysa quite heavily after it has flowered. Will it take hard pruning?

Dan"


Thanks for the question Dan.

I'll ask by returning a question: Why would you like to prune your choisya harder? Pruning could bring benefits as well as risks.

Provided the following, choisya shrubs can take hard pruning:

1) It's planted someplace that offers some protection.
2) Done no sooner than last frost and no later than August.
3) Slug and snails are controlled for the ensuing months.

A heavy soak of water with soluble feed will help regrowth.

I hope this helps, please don't hesitate to write back.
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Dan (26th Jun 2022 - 13:31:29)

Hi DHC

Thank you for your reply and advice. The shrub has become a bit lopsided and I would like to reshape it's growth.

Many Thanks
Dan

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Dan (21st Jul 2022 - 21:48:07)

Dear DHC

Thank you for your recent advice regarding my Choisya Please could you advise on Hydrangea's should be pruned and how far back?

Thank you in advance.

Dan

Re: Horticultural issues?
- DHC (23rd Jul 2022 - 06:12:56)

Dear Dan,
Thanks for contacting DHC.

This is not the season for hydrangea regular pruning.
Different types of hydrangeas take different pruning regimes to promote best quality (rather than quantity) of blooms. None which I know of require pruning this time of year.

Any time of year, on any type of plant, is good time to remove plant parts which are:
dead, diseased, deformed, damaged, damaging or displaced.
Following the extreme heatwave this month, some shrubs (hydrangeas included) have sacrificed sections of themselves which will now look thirsty / wilted. Those sections are best removed now as per any dead plant part.

If your question was regarding any regular pruning for another season, please could you name / describe / send a photo of your hydrangeas. Once identified we could discuss the applicable procedure.

I hope this helps,
DHC

Re: Horticultural issues?
- Dan (25th Jul 2022 - 12:20:35)

Thank you DHC for your invaluable and in depth advice.

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